Home' Greymouth Star : May 24th 2017 Contents Greymouth Star
Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 7
he world loves chicken soup.
It is widely regarded as
something of a cure-all
for colds, flu and many
other physical or emotional
ailments. Although no
single culture can claim it as its own it is a
particular favourite in Jewish homes. A bowl
of hot, fragrant stock ladled over softened
carrots and egg noodles or matzah balls is
a staple. Adding to its legendary appeal,
chicken soup is sometimes called ‘Jewish
Other traditional soups include French
onion, chowders and minestrone.
Legend has it — although it is unclear if
this story is fact or myth — that the first
French onion soup was created by King
Louis the XV of France when all that
could be found in the pantry of his hunting
party’s lodge was butter, onions and
The word chowder is a corruption of the
French chaudiere (cauldron), and chowder
may have originated among Breton
fishermen who took the custom to Canada’s
Newfoundland from where it spread to Nova
Scotia, New Brunswick and New England.
A chowder is characterised by its chunkiness,
while a bisque is typically pureed.
Minestrone, ‘big soup’ to Italians, was
formerly a very humble dish: filling, cheap
and prepared with beans, onions, celery,
carrots, stock, tomatoes and sometimes pasta
or rice. The word originated from ‘minestra’
meaning to dish up or ser ve and it is often
enjoyed as a light evening meal.
Break the egg noodles into smaller pieces,
1.3kg chicken, cut into portions
2 each: celery stalks, carrots, onion,
parsnips, peeled and diced
1 small bunch parsley
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons each: black peppercorns, flaky
2 tablespoons chicken fat or olive oil
1 medium leek, trimmed, halved and thinly
2 medium carrots, finely diced
50g egg noodles or similar
freshly ground salt and pepper to taste
1⁄4 cup finely chopped mixed herbs
Place the chicken in a large saucepan or
stockpot. Add the vegetables, herbs and
seasonings. Cover with cold water by about
Bring to the boil on high heat then reduce
the heat until the soup is just bubbling.
Cook, uncovered, for 11⁄2 hours or until the
chicken is very tender. Cool then refrigerate
to solidify the fat.
Skim the fat off into a small bowl. Remove
the chicken to another bowl. Simmer the
stock for 20 minutes to concentrate the
flavour. Strain through a sieve.
When ready to ser ve the soup, remove the
chicken from the bones and shred.
Heat the chicken fat or oil in a large
saucepan. Saute the leek and diced carrots,
until softened. Add the stock, seasonings
and egg noodles. Simmer until the veggies
and noodles are soft. Add the chicken,
season and heat through. Garnish with
herbs. Ser ves 8.
To make a good beef stock, saute 2kg
of beef bones in oil until browned in
a very large saucepan. Add two each:
chopped onions and carrots; plus herbs and
seasonings. Cover with water. Simmer gently
for four hours or until well reduced. Strain.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1kg brown onions, thinly sliced
1⁄4 cup brandy
4 cloves garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons plain flour
2 litres good beef stock, boiling
1 1⁄2 cups chardonnay
1 bouquet garni
freshly ground salt and black pepper to
8 slices French bread
1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
3⁄4 cup finely grated gruyere cheese
Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan,
until the butter stops foaming. Add the
onions. Cook on very low heat until
transparent and soft, about 20 minutes. Stir
occasionally. Do not brown. Add the brandy
and flame. Add the garlic.
Sprinkle in the flour, stir well, then add
the stock, chardonnay and bouquet garni.
Simmer for 30-40 minutes, until well
flavoured. Season. Discard the bouquet
Meanwhile, toast the sliced French bread.
Brush each side with the oil and crushed
garlic combined. Sprinkle one side with the
Pour the soup into a tureen and float the
bread on top. Place under a hot grill, until
the cheese is melted. Ser ve immediately.
Ser ves 6-8.
Potato and ham
The roux can be made in the microwave in
a heat-proof bowl.
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 each: onion, celery stalk, diced
500g potatoes, diced
100g smoky ham steak, diced
2 cups chicken stock
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
4 tablespoons plain flour or cornflour
11⁄2 cups milk
Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Saute
the onion and celery for 2 minutes. Add the
potatoes, ham, chicken stock and bay leaves
and bring to the boil. Cook on medium heat
until tender, about 15 minutes. Season.
Melt the butter in a separate saucepan. Stir
in the flour and cook for a few seconds to
thicken. Slowly stir in the milk and simmer
on low heat, until thick. Stir this ‘roux’ into
the potato mixture and cook until heated
through. Ser ves 4-6.
Diced capsicums are also excellent in
1 each: large carrot, small turnip, leek,
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, diced
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed
6 cups good vegetable or chicken stock
300g each: silver beet, green beans,
400g can kidney beans or similar, drained
2 large tomatoes, skinned and diced
1 cup peas
salt and freshly ground black pepper to
Peel and dice the carrot and turnip. Trim
the leek and thinly slice the white end. Dice
Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan.
Saute the onion, until softened. Add the
carrot, turnip, leek, celery and garlic. Saute
— stirring — until lightly coloured. Add the
stock and simmer for 15 minutes.
Add the silver beet, beans, tomatoes and
peas. Season. Cover and simmer for about 30
minutes. Ser ves 4-6.
Real chicken noodle soup.
ou love your pinot noir.
You drink way more of it
than any other red wine. You
must like the soft drinking
style and the flavours of strawberries,
cherries, plums, spice with a light tingle
of acidity and tannin. An easy drinking
red that has even converted some white
You will be pleased to know that the
2017 vintage of your wine is bubbling
away in fermenting tanks or has been put
into barrels to mature for a year.
Unfortunately, the wet and cool
weather caused a poor harvest.
You are luckier than we were 25 years
ago in the early days of pinot noir when
it was a sharp, bitter stalky wine, unless
you paid $40 a bottle.
You have the benefit of a generation
of grape growers and winemakers
working to improve this difficult grape.
Their success is reflected in the six-fold
increase in plantings in the past six
Some of this is for the Champagne-
style sparkling wine which is made with
60% pinot noir.
You can now find a reasonable one
for less than $20. Look for Yealands,
Brancott Estate, Villa Maria, Mount
Riley, Mission, Sacred Hill, Main Divide,
Pay more and you get more flavour,
mouthfeel and complexity.
Over $40 and you may be drinking
wine as good as any in the world and
that is where some of our pinot noir is
going. You hear a lot about the success of
sauvignon blanc exports and now pinot is
Give your bottle a chance to improve
by getting some air into it. Pour a glass
and leave it half an hour to breathe.
This red wine goes well with medium
flavoured food like cold meats, vegetarian
Pinot noir is still getting better and
The supreme court in India has banned
alcohol from being sold within 500m
of a state highway in response to the
increasing numbers of crashes attributed
to excessive alcohol consumption. This
has caused mayhem to the hospitality
industry. Some interesting solutions to
this ruling have appeared such as where
a restaurant, bar or hotel has some extra
land they have erected a compact zigzag
fence to cover 500m, like the ones at
airports that you shuffle along to check
your bags through.
Lush — Into a cocktail shaker of ice
put 30ml vodka, 15ml Grand Marnier
(or any orange liqueur), 2tsp elderflower
cordial, shake and strain into a cocktail
glass and top up with sparkling rose.
“Coffee is real good when you drink
it, it gives you time to think. It’s a lot
more than just a drink; it’s something
happening. Not as in hip, but like
an event, a place to be, but not like a
location, but like somewhere within
yourself. It gives you time, but not actual
hours or minutes, but a chance to be, like
be yourself, and have a second cup.”
— Gertrude Stein, 1933
Galbraith’s Redemption 2.5% — They cannot make
a low-alcohol beer taste as good as one at full strength.
They try because many people want to be ‘normal’ and
drink but without becoming intoxicated. This one is
light yellow with a good head, pleasant fruity malt
flavours and soft hops. 330ml. 2 .5%. $3.30.
Phoenix Apple and Guava — Dense non-
carbonated fruit drink deliciously dominated by guava
juice. The goodies keep settling on the bottom so you
have to shake it up. 275ml $2.20 to $2.60 .
Red wine choice
Waipara Hills Pinot Noir 2016 — Pale ruby colour,
tastes of plum, fruit cake and vanilla spice that fill your
palate nicely followed by a gentle tannic aftertaste and
hint of umami. Drink now till 2019. Dry. $16 to $19.
Rose wine choice
The Sisters Pinot Rose 2015 — This label is surely
aimed at women, the colour, the image, the wording,
they are aimed at one particular group of wine buyers.
Fair enough. It ’s perfume is fine and fruity. The taste is
delicate, subtle and refined. ‘ Wine for women who do
extraordinary things, every day,’ says the back label. Off
dry. 12.5%. $18.
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